When Vetements sent its deconstructed, reinvented take on classic wardrobe pieces down the runway, it began a streetwear revolution. All of a sudden, torn up reimagined denim, floral dresses, and oversized sweatshirts became symbols of a new, punk-ish way to wear your clothes. They seemed like ordinary pieces a college kid could pull out of his closet, but in a whole new way. It was a step back from the ‘70s nostalgia that had plagued the runways at Gucci (pre-Alessandro Michele), Chloé, and Saint Laurent, and reflected a fresh wave in the industry.
Two seasons later and Vetements has solidified itself as the cool crew's label. Designer Demna Gvasalia’s band of street kids is changing up the fashion landscape, and a slew of separate tribes has emerged—the eccentric and maximalist Gucci girls, the futuristic Louis Vuitton warriors, and the street gangs of Vetements. Following suit is a group of inspired young labels. Koché, the Parisian-based offering by designer Christelle Kocher, who is also the creative director for Maison Lemarié, one of the specialist ateliers (in this case, feathers) owned by Chanel subsidiary Paraffection. Her pieces are more party than Vetements, but possess the same type of patched together, alternate fabrications and reinvented silhouettes. Then there’s Gosha Rubchinskiy, whose Russian menswear label possesses a punk-ish, Soviet-inspired vibe that has won him legions of followers. Lastly is Magda Butrym, a luxury, ready-to-wear label that delivers evening wear pieces with street influences. A silver, sequinned dress could be worn to a ball, but then slashed at the sides to feel more appropriate at a sketchy club in the early hours of the morning.
(From left: Gosha Rubchinskiy, Magda Butrym, and Koché)