Photography by Jake Jones
 

trends from resort '17

From belts to rainbow stripes to multicolored leopard coats, here's all you need to know about Resort 2017.


Fashion moves at an ever-evolving, lightning fast pace. Before Fall 2016 collections have even left store floors, Resort 2017 has begun to show. Resort is an odd beast; an in-between collection that fills a strange space during the Fall when what you’re really looking for is a winter coat, yet few are available. Instead the racks are filled with vacation-ready dresses and cover-ups, the types of pieces Resort is actually named for: a cruise or resort vacation clients would take during the dreary winter months. However, in the past year designers have begun including clothes in their collections that the customer will actually want to buy now. 

It makes sense in a world where people are less inclined to wait six months to purchase the Dior booties they loved on the runway, instead buying a knockoff pair at Zara two weeks later. Take Brock Collection for example, the new-ish US-based label whose denim range has taken off. Their resort collection included summer-y, printed pleated dresses and light jackets, but also a cropped beaver fur and knee length mink.  “Our customers are really embracing our fur range,” said designer Laura Vassar. “We wanted to offer pieces in the collection that they could buy and wear immediately.” In fact, their entire collection resembled more of a compact, mini wardrobe with everything from denim, knits and dresses to suede trench coats, fur (there were fur clutches and bejeweled ribbon belts), and shoes. This pertains to the other idea that collections don’t simply play with one idea or theme anymore, but are entire miniature clothing lines in one showing.

But because we are human and long to look to something (anything!) for explanation, there are always trends to pull out of collections. For resort, the message was clear: Let’s get waisted. Belts appeared over jackets, over sweaters, and over dresses at Ellery, Missoni, Givenchy, Altuzarra, and Calvin Klein Collection. At everyone’s favorite fun-filled Rosie Assoulin show, an assortment of candy colors covered her signature voluminous dresses and tops, while at Gucci rainbow stripes adorned platform shoes and jackets. The rainbow effect even travelled over to the normally austere palette of New York-based designer Rosetta Getty. 

Another unique trend was fur. A surprising element of the Resort shows, fur coats showed up via multicolored and traditional leopard print at both Erdem and Gucci, and at Fendi and Jil Sander. Across all shows, fur was shaved to a maximum two-inch height. This wasn’t fur that screams, “I’m wearing a fur coat,” but rather, a minimal take on a maximal classic. For accessories, we’re calling it on the pouch bag. Clare Vivier’s purple and red versions have been popping up everywhere on Instagram, and edgier versions covered in quilted chain made an appearance at Sonia Rykiel’s uptown presentation.

There were some old favorites, too, fabrics and prints that seem to exist in multiple collections but are now being called trends. Bomber jackets remain a favorite for designers, particularly at Fendi, Coach, Marc Jacobs and Valentino. Stripes also aren't going away, as seen at Sonia Rykiel, Edun, Rochas, No. 21, and Etro. And baby pink, the hue that seems to be across everyone's logo, showed up at Delpozo, Bally, and Roksanda Ilincic. There were also logo t-shirts in all their '90s glory, popping up at Gucci, See by Chloe, Chanel, DKNY, and MSGM. Dramatic silhouettes like ruffles, flares, and bell sleeves are also here to stay, with designers such as Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Versace and Marco de Vincenzo including them in their collections.

As for the standout item sure to be on everyone’s list: A checked shirt dress (or matching two piece) that hits mid calf. Altuzarra’s version (which was undoubtedly the favorite show amongst fashion editors) was a collarless, sleek and sophisticated offering with very clean lines. Think of it as the uptown version of a checked dress. While at Rosie Assoulin and Suno, matching tops and bottoms (so seamless you’ll have to look twice to make sure they aren’t a dress), combined both ruffles and A-line skirts. Either could be paired with heels for night, or sneakers for a cool take on weekend wear. Bookmark your Net-a-Porter page.

 

The Trends